(day 2) bangkok

Started the morning out really early, went by BTS (Thailand's MRT, actually, they have a BTS AND an MRT, they are operated separately, have different metro cards, and don't connect, making the pubtrans system really inconvenient and one of the less convenient ones I've used) to Victory Monument. Here it is, it's kind of boring.

Stopped by a random stand (we were poached by a hawker) for breakfast (not pictured). I got boat noodles, which is kind of like Thai beef noodle soup. They're called boat noodles because they used to be sold on boats to other people doing business in the canals.

7-11's have all these interesting drinks for sale, like Ovaltine and milk tea and Thai iced tea!

Some have Slurpee machines.

Took a cab to Wat Phra Kaew, or Temple of the Emerald Buddha, which is also connected to the Grand Palace. The entire complex was HUGE and absolutely inundated with tourists. We may as well have been in Seoul with the number of Korean tourists that were there.

Though we weren't completely inappropriately addressed, it turns out both leggings and shorts are unacceptable, so we had to borrow sarongs/trousers before we were allowed to go in. They rent them out for free but you have to go through this process of putting down a deposit and then getting it back, plus there were tons of people that were wearing sleeveless tops or dresses, so it took a while. Not a good start to the experience.

The temple itself was really cool. The architecture, ornamentation, colors, grandeur etc. were all brand new to me and it was really amazing to see. However. The sheer volume of tourists plus the intense humid heat put a real damper on the experience for me, and I had a hard time getting into without feeling suffocated and uncomfortable. I think I would always go to a quiet "second tier" tourist attraction than a crowded "absolutely must see" tourist attraction.  

Closeup of some of the gold tiling. The gold and glass reflecting in the sun was really brilliant and magnificent.

Closeup of a column, those silver bits have mirrors on them that reflect light back at you so the whole temple complex looks like it's made of thousands of sparkling jewels.

There were also little cute landscaping scenes like this scattered around.

I'm not sure what the significance of any of the buildings, spires, and shapes are, but there are a lot of these pointy things. They're not always gold. Seems like each temple goes with a color scheme and sticks to it. I like the little guys at the bottom holding it up.

Face cracks me up.

See how I tried to cut off all the tourist heads at the bottom with my framing. I wanted to do it in real life too.

Stayed a couple of hours, then when we were nice and sweaty, got a tuk tuk to take us to some random food cafeteria that I'd read about (didn't know much about it, just needed a place to go).

The tuk tuk ride was really fun!! There's just something about riding in an open air vehicle that is so free and exhilarating. It's not about speed, cuz you're only going like 30 mph, it's just that you're way more connected to the environment while you're traveling I guess.

The cafeteria place. Big, not a lot of people, not a lot of English.

They bring you a cart of drinks that you can choose from (and you have to pay for whatever you pick ofc). We picked this shocking green Fanta drink and basically chugged it. So hot in Bangkok.

The food was only ok, I think we just got one small thing of curry and shared it. Glad we didn't order more.

Went back to Airbnb and basked in the sweet sweet AC. Used the rooftop infinity pool (seems like all apartment buildings have one in Bangkok).

After cooling off, headed back out again for (you guessed it) more food! Had a specific restaurant in mind that specializes in papaya salad and northern Thailand (Isaan) cuisine.

But on the way, had to stop and try this street food stand that popped up right at the corner of the street. They didn't have a stove or anything so I guess they just cooked it at home and then set up shop somewhere.

We got an order of the eggrolls for 35 baht ($1). The stuff on the right I think is for making dessert, like when you get Vietnamese drinks and it has a bunch of crap in it? Or maybe old school Taiwanese bing dessert? Something like that...

Got a red bull from 7-11, Thailand has like the "real" or "original" Red Bull or something, contains some ingredient that we're not allowed to use at home so everyone says to try it when you go to Thailand. It's really cheap there! Tastes the same.

The eggrolls were vegetarian and they gave us a thing of sauce. It was sooooo good. Dylan maintains it was the best thing we'd eaten so far (and maybe on the whole trip?)

Kind of a larb salad thing.

Papaya salad (som tum)! This was my favorite dish but also deceptively the spiciest so I couldn't have a lot of it.

A bamboo salad dish. Everything we got was kind of similar, all pretty good though.

After having a ton of salads, Dylan wasn't feeling great so we headed back. Everyone says that you will get upset stomach when you visit Thailand -- and it's true. We both did at different points in the trip. The spiciness doesn't help, either. Bring Immodium! Or buy it in Thailand, it's cheaper.

(day 1) bangkok

Airbnb room near Nana BTS station. It was super hot in Bangkok for the 3 days we were there, so having a room with AC that you can blast all day (I know, wasteful heathens, we are) was a godsend. 

7-11 has a surprisingly wide selection of alcohol! Though they only sell it at certain times -- I think sales close at like 10pm or 11pm so if you're planning on having a beer at home at night, better pick it up early.

Lays is doing some funny marketing thing where all their bags have caricature mouths on them, and the commercials show people eating Lays and then matching the mouths to their face so it looks like they're grinning.

First meal in Thailand! Pad Thai from a super sketch, super dirty cart. I figured there's no point in babying my GI tract -- bring on the bacteria!

It was...super delicious, and only 60 baht = $1.50.

(day 7) Galata Bridge

After Galata Tower, I meandered over to Galata Bridge, the bridge joining the northern and southern European side, bridging the Golden Horn. I'd read that it was a nice walk to do, and what better day to do it than this nice sunny day.

Actually another day might have been a better day to do it. :( I realized after I left the hostel that I had forgotten to use deodorant. Sorry Istanbul.

Looking down Galata Bridge, you can see some minarets of Sultanahmet mosques (Sultanahmet is on the southern half of the European side).

Ferries leaving from Karaköy (Galata), either cross the Golden Horn or the Bosphorus to reach the other shores of Istanbul.

These fisherman caught some little fish!

There were tons of fisherman out on the bridge that day, many had little buckets of fish -- dinner, perhaps.

Reaching the other side of Galata Bridge. I thought it was going to be really long, like crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, but it was actually a pretty short walk, maybe 10 minutes, at a very lazy pace.

This is Eminonu, the south-European shore port.

A stand in Eminonu port that sells pickled vegetables for eating. Like that pyramid of cups is just full of picked vegetables that you can puncture and eat with a fork, while walking.

(day 7) Galata Tower

Due to Istanbul/Constantinople's strategic location at a junction between East and West, it naturally became a city where trade flourished. But the Byzantines were not the only people who had an eye on the potential gains from trade profits. Merchants from many neighboring city-states and empires also flocked to the city to share the wealth. In particular, Venetians and Genoese from what is now Italy (but at the time were just city-states) crowded into Constantinople in an attempt to dominate trade on the Mediterranean Sea.

Many of these foreigners -- Venetians, Genoese, and Jews -- situated themselves in Galata, the northern half of the European side (the European side is split in north/south portions by the Golden Horn, an inlet of water). A bunch of politics happened, the Venetians were ousted from the area, and Galata became a Genoese colony.

They stayed there for centuries, until the final Ottoman invasion of Constantinople, where Genoa responded to the declining empire's request for aid with 700 Genoese soldiers, but it was nowhere near enough to staunch the flow of Ottoman soldiers.

The Genoese built a large tower, Galata Tower, in order to strengthen the defense of their colony. From the top of the tower there is a panoramic view across the water, enabling them to spot foreign invaders. That original tower, having gone through the gauntlet of earthquakes, fires, and foreign invaders, eventually fell during the Fourth Crusade, but a new one was built in its place 1348.

That tower is still standing today, and dominates the skyline of the European (north side) coast of Istanbul, in the Beyoglu district. Galata is technically a "quarter" in the Beyoglu district, and is known in Turkish as Karaköy, or sometimes is referenced by its very old Greek name, Pera, short for Peran en Sykais, literally "the Fig Field on the Other Side."

The names are quite confusing, I can't figure out which geographical names refer to where, which are old and new terms, which are in which language. I guess that's what happens when you are in a city with such a diverse history.

I think it's cool though, that this neighborhood certainly has the most "European" feel to it. I suppose that even centuries later, the footprint of the Genoese colonists still remains here. Istanbul really is a hodge podge of so many different things.

I had seen Genoa Tower since the first day I arrived, and I was really excited to see it up close. It sticks out like a beautiful sore thumb, amidst mosque domes and minarets, this medieval, Renaissance-esque tower.

It looks like Rapunzel's tower smack dab in the center of a Middle East city! How curious.

Good thing it isn't Rapunzel's tower, there's no way she could fit that hair under a head scarf.

At the time it was built, it was the tallest building in Constantinople.

The line of tourists waiting to climb to the top. There is an admission fee as well.

Those of you that know me know that I refuse to shell out money to climb to the top of tall buildings, so I of course, passed. I hear there is a restaurant and cafe up there though, with a predictably stunning view.

(day 7) Cafe Kafka

After a long leisurely stroll down Istiklal St., I arrive at my (excuse for a) destination, Cafe Kafka. At first glance I was like hmm, looks a little shabby. A narrow dark staircase leading up to who knows what.

That other store next to it, Mektup, is an art supplies and crafts store.

The ivy growing down the power lines is a nice look.

Once inside though, it's beautiful! Another open-air terrace, eclectic furniture, cushy seats.

Seriously, Istanbul's cafe game is strong.

Boys on the Boat! So excited!

Sadly, my chocolate milkshake was not very good (I think when they say milkshake they mean more like icee), but at only 7 TL = $2.50, WHO CARES! $2 for unlimited sitting & chilling rights? I'm in.

(day 7) Istiklal Street (Istiklal Caddesi)

Once again I had no clear idea of where to go, just a bunch of dots on my google maps. So I played connect the dots!

Usually, I get to and from the hostel via the Funicular. Taksim Square is at the top of a hill. If you start from the coastline (where the ferries are, and where the last stop of the tram is), and walk to Taksim Square, it is an uphill hike the whole way. No thanks. The Funicular is a tiny public transportation line that just goes between the last stop on the tram and Taksim Square. Uphill and downhill, uphill and downhill.

Today though, I decided to walk to the coast (downhill), headed for Galata Tower. I earmarked a cafe along the way, recommended by a guidebook, for a short coffee break.

On my way down, I would go through Istiklal St. (Caddesi), the hip and happening street of Beyoglu, the hip and happening neighborhood of modern Istanbul. Istiklal means "independence", the street name was changed to Istiklal St. to commemorate the War of Independence that led to the formation of the Republic of Turkey (modern day Turkey).

If you want us to talk to each other then don't offer free wifi!

There are tons, and tons, and TONS of stores that sell Turkish sweets. I guess Turkish people must gift each other sweets a lot, because I think even the steady influx of tourists to Istanbul would not support this many sweets shops.

"Lokum" is their word for Turkish delights.

Istiklal St. is a very broad street. Cars can and do drive up and down the street, but at a snail's pace, and honking all the way, since leisurely-walking pedestrians mostly fill the breadth of the street. It's the equivalent of when a taxi drives through a night market in Taiwan. What were you expecting dude? Go around!

Piles of glorious, delicious food. Most of the dishes in these deli-styled places are a mix of meat and veggies, they almost look stir-fried. And of course everything is red-tinged because -- tomatoes!!

There are numerous side streets shooting off from Istiklal Caddesi. By day, it's endless avenues of restaurants and shops to explore, by night, many of these transform into bars and lounges, turning Istiklal Street into the center of Istanbul nightlife.

This area has the most liberally dressed young people of all the neighborhoods I've explored. Headscarves are not uncommon, but as you can see, the street fashion looks just the same as at home.

A BERSHKA!!!! Bershka is an international clothing store that I first discovered in Tokyo. They have branches all over the world, but strangely not in the US. I took a peek inside but they were gearing up for winter, and I didn't want to bring any thick sweaters home.

Just proof to Michael that Turkish delights ARE A REAL THING you ignorant slut.

There are so many sweet shops here it's crazy. Even if I tried 10 different kinds of sweets a day, I don't think I would have sampled all of them.

Just right here, about 10 varieties of baklava. Any no-nut kinds??

And the ubiquitous fruit juice stands, with endless heaps of pomegranate and oranges. I like the way they display them.

A cute cafe styled like a tram car.

Lured inside by artsy, design-y cups and mugs. I love cups and mugs. :<

All told, Istiklal St goes on for about .8 miles, or about a 15 min walk. I kind of breezed through, since I wasn't in the mood for shopping, and I needed to make good use of the remaining sunshine hours!