(day 7) Galata Bridge

After Galata Tower, I meandered over to Galata Bridge, the bridge joining the northern and southern European side, bridging the Golden Horn. I'd read that it was a nice walk to do, and what better day to do it than this nice sunny day.

Actually another day might have been a better day to do it. :( I realized after I left the hostel that I had forgotten to use deodorant. Sorry Istanbul.

Looking down Galata Bridge, you can see some minarets of Sultanahmet mosques (Sultanahmet is on the southern half of the European side).

Ferries leaving from Karaköy (Galata), either cross the Golden Horn or the Bosphorus to reach the other shores of Istanbul.

These fisherman caught some little fish!

There were tons of fisherman out on the bridge that day, many had little buckets of fish -- dinner, perhaps.

Reaching the other side of Galata Bridge. I thought it was going to be really long, like crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, but it was actually a pretty short walk, maybe 10 minutes, at a very lazy pace.

This is Eminonu, the south-European shore port.

A stand in Eminonu port that sells pickled vegetables for eating. Like that pyramid of cups is just full of picked vegetables that you can puncture and eat with a fork, while walking.

(day 7) Galata Tower

Due to Istanbul/Constantinople's strategic location at a junction between East and West, it naturally became a city where trade flourished. But the Byzantines were not the only people who had an eye on the potential gains from trade profits. Merchants from many neighboring city-states and empires also flocked to the city to share the wealth. In particular, Venetians and Genoese from what is now Italy (but at the time were just city-states) crowded into Constantinople in an attempt to dominate trade on the Mediterranean Sea.

Many of these foreigners -- Venetians, Genoese, and Jews -- situated themselves in Galata, the northern half of the European side (the European side is split in north/south portions by the Golden Horn, an inlet of water). A bunch of politics happened, the Venetians were ousted from the area, and Galata became a Genoese colony.

They stayed there for centuries, until the final Ottoman invasion of Constantinople, where Genoa responded to the declining empire's request for aid with 700 Genoese soldiers, but it was nowhere near enough to staunch the flow of Ottoman soldiers.

The Genoese built a large tower, Galata Tower, in order to strengthen the defense of their colony. From the top of the tower there is a panoramic view across the water, enabling them to spot foreign invaders. That original tower, having gone through the gauntlet of earthquakes, fires, and foreign invaders, eventually fell during the Fourth Crusade, but a new one was built in its place 1348.

That tower is still standing today, and dominates the skyline of the European (north side) coast of Istanbul, in the Beyoglu district. Galata is technically a "quarter" in the Beyoglu district, and is known in Turkish as Karaköy, or sometimes is referenced by its very old Greek name, Pera, short for Peran en Sykais, literally "the Fig Field on the Other Side."

The names are quite confusing, I can't figure out which geographical names refer to where, which are old and new terms, which are in which language. I guess that's what happens when you are in a city with such a diverse history.

I think it's cool though, that this neighborhood certainly has the most "European" feel to it. I suppose that even centuries later, the footprint of the Genoese colonists still remains here. Istanbul really is a hodge podge of so many different things.

I had seen Genoa Tower since the first day I arrived, and I was really excited to see it up close. It sticks out like a beautiful sore thumb, amidst mosque domes and minarets, this medieval, Renaissance-esque tower.

It looks like Rapunzel's tower smack dab in the center of a Middle East city! How curious.

Good thing it isn't Rapunzel's tower, there's no way she could fit that hair under a head scarf.

At the time it was built, it was the tallest building in Constantinople.

The line of tourists waiting to climb to the top. There is an admission fee as well.

Those of you that know me know that I refuse to shell out money to climb to the top of tall buildings, so I of course, passed. I hear there is a restaurant and cafe up there though, with a predictably stunning view.

(day 7) Cafe Kafka

After a long leisurely stroll down Istiklal St., I arrive at my (excuse for a) destination, Cafe Kafka. At first glance I was like hmm, looks a little shabby. A narrow dark staircase leading up to who knows what.

That other store next to it, Mektup, is an art supplies and crafts store.

The ivy growing down the power lines is a nice look.

Once inside though, it's beautiful! Another open-air terrace, eclectic furniture, cushy seats.

Seriously, Istanbul's cafe game is strong.

Boys on the Boat! So excited!

Sadly, my chocolate milkshake was not very good (I think when they say milkshake they mean more like icee), but at only 7 TL = $2.50, WHO CARES! $2 for unlimited sitting & chilling rights? I'm in.

(day 7) Istiklal Street (Istiklal Caddesi)

Once again I had no clear idea of where to go, just a bunch of dots on my google maps. So I played connect the dots!

Usually, I get to and from the hostel via the Funicular. Taksim Square is at the top of a hill. If you start from the coastline (where the ferries are, and where the last stop of the tram is), and walk to Taksim Square, it is an uphill hike the whole way. No thanks. The Funicular is a tiny public transportation line that just goes between the last stop on the tram and Taksim Square. Uphill and downhill, uphill and downhill.

Today though, I decided to walk to the coast (downhill), headed for Galata Tower. I earmarked a cafe along the way, recommended by a guidebook, for a short coffee break.

On my way down, I would go through Istiklal St. (Caddesi), the hip and happening street of Beyoglu, the hip and happening neighborhood of modern Istanbul. Istiklal means "independence", the street name was changed to Istiklal St. to commemorate the War of Independence that led to the formation of the Republic of Turkey (modern day Turkey).

If you want us to talk to each other then don't offer free wifi!

There are tons, and tons, and TONS of stores that sell Turkish sweets. I guess Turkish people must gift each other sweets a lot, because I think even the steady influx of tourists to Istanbul would not support this many sweets shops.

"Lokum" is their word for Turkish delights.

Istiklal St. is a very broad street. Cars can and do drive up and down the street, but at a snail's pace, and honking all the way, since leisurely-walking pedestrians mostly fill the breadth of the street. It's the equivalent of when a taxi drives through a night market in Taiwan. What were you expecting dude? Go around!

Piles of glorious, delicious food. Most of the dishes in these deli-styled places are a mix of meat and veggies, they almost look stir-fried. And of course everything is red-tinged because -- tomatoes!!

There are numerous side streets shooting off from Istiklal Caddesi. By day, it's endless avenues of restaurants and shops to explore, by night, many of these transform into bars and lounges, turning Istiklal Street into the center of Istanbul nightlife.

This area has the most liberally dressed young people of all the neighborhoods I've explored. Headscarves are not uncommon, but as you can see, the street fashion looks just the same as at home.

A BERSHKA!!!! Bershka is an international clothing store that I first discovered in Tokyo. They have branches all over the world, but strangely not in the US. I took a peek inside but they were gearing up for winter, and I didn't want to bring any thick sweaters home.

Just proof to Michael that Turkish delights ARE A REAL THING you ignorant slut.

There are so many sweet shops here it's crazy. Even if I tried 10 different kinds of sweets a day, I don't think I would have sampled all of them.

Just right here, about 10 varieties of baklava. Any no-nut kinds??

And the ubiquitous fruit juice stands, with endless heaps of pomegranate and oranges. I like the way they display them.

A cute cafe styled like a tram car.

Lured inside by artsy, design-y cups and mugs. I love cups and mugs. :<

All told, Istiklal St goes on for about .8 miles, or about a 15 min walk. I kind of breezed through, since I wasn't in the mood for shopping, and I needed to make good use of the remaining sunshine hours!

(day 7) breakfast at #bunk

Just another reminder that I am writing these all out of order, so don't trust that the latest post is the most recent content on here.

********************************************************

Phew! One whole week in Istanbul and I am pooped. I have been sleeping a lot, but also walking around tons every day. Also, the heel of my shoe broke so I have been hobbling/wobbling around the city. No joke. It gave me a huge blister on my heel so add limping to the mix.

I really, really wanted to take a day off, but according to weather reports, this was the last day of sunshine for a while! Wednesday-Saturday are all going to be rainy and stormy, and I absolutely abhor getting rained on, so I know I won't be going out then. That means I have to get shit done today.

So here we go.

Gotta start the day off right! I finally tried breakfast here at #bunk. Sadly theirs isn't free, it costs 16 TL = $5 USD, which is a pretty steep price if you ask me. A tostu is only like 3 TL!

They do have a nice spread, but overall I would say it's not worth the cost unless you're gonna eat tons.

It was a really beautiful day though, the hottest so far! Not looking forward to the heat, but look at this view (from the terrace). :)

(day 6) Cemberlitas Column, aka Constantine's Column

Binbirdirek Cistern was a solid C+, so, emboldened by my mediocre success, I went searching for some more Cs: Constantine's Column, AKA Cemberlitas Column. (AKA Burnt Column, AKA Porphyry Column, but those don't fit the C theme as well).

But first, a McDonalds. McDonalds here have these awesome soft serve takeout windows. You can get a walk-by soft serve. WE NEED THIS FOR SUMMER.

Well I guess we don't because nobody walks.

How funny, I just realized that this is like the modern day version of those refreshments kiosks from the Ottoman times. Tired pedestrians passing by get passed a refreshment through a window, and these drinks are so inexpensive they're basically free!

So. *clears throat*. Constantine's Column.

It was erected as the centerpiece of Constantine's Forum, to celebrate the relocation of the empire's capital to Constantinople. It was originally from the Temple of Apollo in Rome and had a statue of Apollo at the top, but Constantine changed it a statue of himself made up like Apollo when he had it moved over here (arrogant, huh?).

This column seriously has 9 lives. It has been blown over by the wind, struck by lightening, survived multiple sackings of the city, fires, earthquakes, pretty much any natural disaster you can think of.

The name Burnt Column came from the giant scorch marks it received during the fires, Cemberlitas means "the wall with rings", referring to the numerous iron rings binding the column together (it's actually made up of small column chunks).

Perhaps the reason it has survived so long is due to the supposed relics that are buried at the base of the column. Rumor has it that the baskets from the loaves and fishes miracle, an alabaster ointment jar belonging to Mary Magdalene, among other objects, are hidden there.

It does look pretty beat up.

A person, for scale.

(day 6) Binbirdirek Cistern

After the cafe, I felt ready to walk again. Made my way to some other "points of interest" markers on my google maps.

This is Binbirdirek Cistern! The lesser-known sistern (eat my puns) to Basilica Cistern. It is the second largest cistern, after Basilica.

Historically, there's not a whole lot to say about it. When Constantine moved his capital city to Constantinople, some senators were forced to move along with him. One of them, Philoxenos, built his palace near the Forum of Constantine (where the Cemberlitas column, in the next entry, is) and the Hippodrome. The water was supplied from this cistern.

I don't think anyone really comes here, the guard looked bored as heck, and I was the only one in the place.

There was a sign saying no photos, but fuck the police! This is what you get for not posting guards.

It certainly wasn't as cool or atmospheric as Basilica Cistern, but for only 10TL ($3.50) it wasn't a bad deal. I just like these underground chambers I guess.

Binbirdirek Cistern literally means "cistern of 1001 columns", even though this cistern only has 224. But "binbir", 1001, is an idiomatic phrase that just means "a lot of", so this place is very descriptively named "cistern of a lot of columns". You know. To distinguish it from the other cisterns with a lot of columns.

I recently learned that there is a panorama mode on my phone camera!! I use it a lot!! I hope you enjoy blurry panoramas!!

The cistern is still used as a venue for some events.

This is a very modern looking bar in a very old looking cistern. Weird.

(day 6) Kybele Cafe

After walking around all day, I was all tuckered out. I actually spent half an hour sitting and reading at one end of the archaeological museum because my feet were too tired to make it through yet another exhibit hall.

So I pulled up my handy Google maps where I'd saved any places of interest that I had found while researching, and looked for coffee shops. I found one somewhat nearby, recommended by some guidebook as having "antique furniture and thousands of lights hanging from the ceiling". That sounded interesting.

And it was really cool! Hundreds and hundreds of lights (I was later told there were more than 4000 lights hanging from the ceiling of the establishment) gave this restaurant/cafe/hotel a really unique look and atmosphere. I'm really not into antiques or ornate and flowery furniture, but I do like lights.

Another view.

Iced latte (12TL = $4), baklava $4. You know I'm not actually sure I've had baklava before. I like it except for the nuts, I wish they had it without nuts. But since there are only 4 ingredients, one of which is nuts, I guess they probably don't have nut-free ones.

After reading downstairs for a while, I was told there's a terrace upstairs, and do I want to go sit there. Duh! Y u no tell me earlier.

It's super cute. I could really get used to cafe life in Istanbul. Best cafe life of anywhere I've been to so far.

The waiter started chatting with me, and I found out his uncle owns this place. It used to just be a hotel, then he bought the building next door and turned it into a cafe/restaurant and joined the two. Then he bought the apartments upstairs, and turned part of this one into a library + private dining room for guests. It's really cute inside, I want one of these in my home (but instead of a dining table just a big lounge chair).

The book that I'm reading now, The Boys in the Boat, is about 9 American boys that go to the 1936 Olympics for rowing (crew), right before WWII. It's about their individual stories, their journey to the top, and the art of rowing. It sounds like kind of a dry topic, but the author does such a good job of pulling you into the spirit of things, introducing you to the boys, that really it was an incredibly emotional book. I almost cried a few times, literally. Due to literature. Pun.

But seriously, highly recommend, for any of you looking to pick up a book.

(day 6) Hagia Irene (Aya Irini)

After a disappointing but filling lunch, I headed over to the Hagia Irene, which is actually located within the walls of Topkapi Palace. When I came here with Ali and Kurt, Ali suggested that I go in and check it out, but I said I would come back again and see it later. Well I'll be damned if I have to pay $5 to go see it! Museum card gogogo!

Hagia Irene, like Hagia Sophia, is a Byzantine church, one of three built by Constantine to dedicate to God's three attributes that they derive their names from: Wisdom (Hagia Sophia), Peace (Hagia Irene), and Power (Hagia Dynamis).

Unlike Hagia Sophia, Hagia Irene was one of the very few Byzantine churches that wasn't converted to a mosque. Instead, the Ottomans used it as an armory, arsenal, and storehouse for war booty (sacrilegious, no?). It is also older than Hagia Sophia, in fact it was the first church commissioned by Constantine. As with all other buildings it is not the exact original structure, it has been rebuilt and fixed up through revolts, fires, and earthquakes.

Despite the interesting history, I was only lukewarm on going to see the Hagia Irene -- another church, and a smaller, less grand version of the Hagia Sophia, which was also not super fascinating? Mmmm pass. Only the lure of free entry $$$$$ pulled me in.

The tell-tale sign of a Byzantine structure, old Byzantine red brick. Despite some being converted to mosques, these old buildings still retain their red brick exterior.

Ok. Hagia Irene is NOTHING like Hagia Sophia. True, it is smaller, but it is so amazing and beautiful inside! There were very few visitors, no guards. The structure looked stable enough, but also like not much renovation had been done to it. It looked old, worn down -- basically everything you would want to see in a 2000 year old church. It just looked so authentic inside. These pillars with their crumbling, mismatched bases.

The large, spacious nave (central part of a church), abandoned, echo-y.

That white mesh cloth stretched across the top did detract from the atmosphere a little, but looking up at how much dirt, feathers, and bird shit it had caught, I am not going to complain.

I also love how bare and un-ornamented everything is, all except this huge cross over the altar area.

This spot in Byzantine churches is usually occupied by a large image of Christ Pantocrator ("All Powerful" or "Rule of All"). However, the Byzantine Empire went through two iconoclastic periods, where Emperor Leo disallowed use of religious symbols, or icons, where icons actually refers to sacred images of saints, Jesus, Mary, etc. This is due to an interpretation of a passage of the Bible, decreeing that its followers should not make or worship "graven icons". Strict obedience to this passage meant no images of religious people at all.

During these iconoclastic periods, countless religious objects and art were destroyed. This large cross in Hagia Irene is a unique vestige of this period, where likely the original image hanging there was destroyed, replaced by a non-human symbol.

The end verdict? I loved Hagia Irene. Like Basilica Cistern, it felt a bit abandoned, spooky, but very real. Places like Hagia Sophia, though much grander, with much more art and architecture to see, ultimately feels kind of like an amusement park (to me).

Strangely enough for a SUPER old building, Hagia Irene is brought back to life every year during the Istanbul International Music Festival, and from time to time as a classic concert hall. It's large atrium and amazing acoustics make it an atmospheric and unique stage for performances.

I would love to come back and see a performance here someday!

(day 6) lunch snacks

After the Arasta Bazaar I was feeling pretty hungry, as I hadn't eaten all day. I went off in search of a toastie (they're called tostu in Turkish, so I think of them in my head as toasties, even though that's not a real word), those flat panini sandwich things. They sell them out of kiosks (along with other sandwich and fast foods) for just like $1.50 and they look super good.

On my way I was waylaid by this cafe/kiosk selling fresh squeezed juice. Turkish people really do love fresh fruits and vegetables. You can find fresh squeezed juice being sold everywhere, and for really cheap too! I sprung for the pomegranate, which was expensive at 10TL = $3.50, but the orange juice is just $1. Pomegranate juice is alright but has a slightly acrid/bitter after taste that I don't like.

Instead of getting a tostu, I decided to try a simit. There are lots of little food carts around the streets, and most say "simit" on them. A simit looks something like a bagel, it's a round circle of bread with a hole in the middle, and sprinkled with poppyseed, usually priced at ~1 TL = 25 cents.

This is a simit cart. They sell various other kinds of breads too, usually very simple, not pastries with filling inside, just bread.

Ok I changed my mind last minute. I wanted to try a simit because it seems like such a ubiquitous food around here, but looking at it again I just didn't want it. It looks to plain and bland.

So I opted for this guy instead, though he was more expensive at 3 TL. I was like yum! Cinnamon bread!

No. :< Bland. Barely any sugar or flavor. I ate it anyway so I didn't waste but it was disappointing.

There are tons of tiny food stands everywhere in Istanbul, kind of like Taiwan, but unlike Taiwan they all seem to sell the same few things. There are simit carts, chestnut carts, mussel carts, and carts selling boiled corn. This one looks like a corn + chestnut hybrid.

There are other quick food options, like tostu, but those are usually sold in more permanent looking kiosks.

(day 6) Arasta Bazaar

The exit to the mosaic museum dumps you right by Arasta Bazaar. I walked by this place every day going to and from Bahaus, but never really had the inclination to go in, since I'm not planning on buying much. Since I was here though, figured I may as well go in.

At first glance, they seemed to be selling the same stuff I'd seen in all the shops around Sultanahmet. A lot of textiles (carpets, scarves, blankets, pillows).

A couple of shops looked interesting though, I really liked some of these cuffs, but I don't wear jewelry anymore so I didn't bother going in. Maybe later in the week when it's rainy.

A nargile (hookah) cafe cleaning all of their hookahs.

Thanks to my superpower of never having to go to the bathroom, I haven't had to deal with public bathrooms yet. I've heard that many public facilities have squatter toilets (NOPE NOT DOING THAT!), and are poorly serviced, and that it might be a safer bet to use the pay-to-enter bathrooms.

So just FYI if you are in Istanbul and you need to pee (or poop, you disgusting filthy animal), here is what they look like! The turnstile industry must really be booming in Istanbul. 

Another common good here are these Turkish lamps. I absolutely love these, they're like little stained glass bulbs. However, I don't think they would really look good just by themselves, I think they look nice when there are bunches of them hanging like this, and of course I can't take all those home. :< If I ever have a house though, and I get to make a "chill" room with big cushions and pillows to lounge on and read or play games, I would definitely install a bunch of these pretty lights. 

Most textiles here are imported from nearby cities, but apparently they are all handmade. I think this is a silk weaving loom. You can see on that short little stool there hundreds of silk cocoons.

Apparently all silk used to come to the Byzantine Empire by trade roads from China, until in the 6th century AD, some monks were able to successfully smuggle out silkworms. After that, the Byzantines had a monopoly on the supply of silk to Europe. $$$$